A Travellerspoint blog

Jan 2007

Santo Domingo de los Colorados, Day 1

An icky city

rain

My informant was wrong: Santo Domingo isn`t very nice. Actually yesterday before I left Montañita, I bought some banners on chains (for street performance... I`m not sure of their actual name) from an artesan shop and the girl there said it wasn`t worth seeing. Ah well. I arrived at 1am this morning and didn`t want to sit on another bus, so here I am for today.

At the moment I`m putting more photos onto CDs to clear up space on my camera, but also in preparation to send one more package home. I`m carrying things I don`t need!

All is well otherwise. It`s raining here, the city is dirty and busy and there`s not much to see: a few pricey shops, a forgettable market, dingy hostels, and it smells bad. Thumbs down to this place. Quito here I come! I`ll travel again tomorrow morning.

Posted by The Cat 1:43 PM Comments (0)

Montañita, Day 7

How the time flies

sunny 30 °C

Well I`ve finally packed my bags and will be taking a bus up the coast to Manta and then catching another bus to Santo Domingo de los Colorados en la sierra (mountains). I`ve had a wild time in Montañita and just couldn`t leave earlier.

After my first couple days here I`d been spending so much time at the house that my artesania friends rent that I actually moved my stuff there, seeing that it was pointless to pay for a hostel I was never at.

What a life these people lead! It`s free, full of people coming and going, but always with a sense of community and brotherhood. When one person in the family has money, everyone has money; when one person has food, everyone eats. I became part of the ¨family¨ one of my first nights partying there and have a whole collection of crazy photos to commemorate the initiation. I`ve learned a few things about the different kinds of art they sell, how to make devil sticks, I learned some tricks with batons that you light on fire, and, of course, I have partied hard and slept little. I like that even without knowing Spanish well I can hang out and make good friends with people who don`t know a word of English.

Anyway, I`ll take it easy and catch up on sleep after today. I hear Santo Domingo is beautiful and I look forward to moving on now that I`ve made that decision to leave the crazy Argentinians.

Posted by The Cat 9:00 AM Comments (0)

Montañita, Day 3

Heyo!

sunny 27 °C

Ok, so I decided spontaneously to skip Guayaquil and Salinas/La Libertad cuz I don`t want to spend just one or two days in each. That kind of travelling is too fast for me.

So on Wednesday when I got off one bus I hopped right onto the next one and ended up in Montañita, another awesome surfing-artesania-banana pancakes-beautiful beach type of town. I`m having a great time here hanging out with some artesanias I met back in Máncora, and enjoying another kind of non-touristy travelling with these modern nomads.

Anyway, I`ll write when I can, but don`t worry if I don`t get around to it until I leave this town.

Surf´s up!

(I haven`t actually been surfing, but it`s just something I gotta say.)

Posted by The Cat 5:03 PM Comments (0)

Cuenca, Day 1

I`m a tourist again.

sunny 17 °C

Saturday afternoon, in the midst of my battling head and heart, reluctant to leave Vilcabamba but packing my bags, ´real life´ came in to distract me once or twice. I`d been staying in the apartment that Tina, the farm`s owner, and her friend Martha share for volunteers and for when they need it. A couple other people were hanging out as well, getting ready to leave. We were all sitting in the front room when we noticed a man sitting on the curb across the street. He appeared to be injured. He was Ecuadorian, a labourer, had no money, lived in the next little town over, and it turned out he`d fallen and sliced his hand on some glass. He was bleeding profusely and his thumb was almost falling off. I think he`d been to the hospital but since he had no money he couldn`t be treated and was just crying and bleeding all over the place.

We took him into the apartment to clean his hand a bit and gave him a temporary rag, then walked him to the hospital nearby. I asked the nurses to help and was quickly introduced to the convoluted health care system in Ecuador. They would, for free, treat and stitch his thumb back on, but they kept no supplies at the facility and it was up to us to run to the nearest Farmacia to buy them. So a the 2 girls and I waited there with him, I gave their other friend some money, and he ran off, coming back in about 5 minutes with a suture kit, needles, pain medication, etc, all for $5. We hung around while Jaime got fixed up, I bought him a sugary drink to help his blood-sugar level, and we walked him back into town, wishing him good luck and giving him advice on how to keep it clean. He said he had much respect for us all and walked away properly bandaged and grateful.

Sunday I felt sick knowing I was going to leave: I`d arranged a ride with one of Martha´s friends who was going into Loja at 1pm. I knew my friends at the farm might be showing up sometime that day so it was agony not knowing if I`d see them one last time before I left. I didn`t. The ride was nice though and, not wanting to linger or I`d never move on, I immediately took a bus to Cuenca. The guy who drove me, by the way, basically propositioned me when I said I`d consider living in the area for a while. He said he lived alone and if we lived together matrimonially for just a year I could get dual citizenship. This was with respect of course - he is a good man and a good friend of Martha`s so I trusted him - it`s just the way people are around here and I politely said I wasn`t sure what my plans were.

Anyway, here I am in Cuenca, a lovely little city with stunning rustic architecture and lots of art shops which is what I tend to look at now when I`m in bigger places. I went into the Museum of Contempory Art which didn`t actually have an exhibition cuz they were preparing one for February, but the building itself was worth looking at as they have the most beautiful gardens. This afternoon I`m gonna head down to the river, which I hear is also very beautiful. I`m not quite ready to soak in the stones yet. I need a bit of nature.

Posted by The Cat 10:36 AM Comments (0)

Vilcabamba, there are no days here

in the land of eternal youth

Today I decided to leave the farm; time to move on. It`s strange to be using a computer after this week.

To be honest, I`m not sure I can write about Never Never Land. Not yet anyway. The emotions are too raw, the experience too deep, the power of this whole area, the farm and the sacred valley in which Vilcabamba lies, still too present. From the San Pedro ceremony last week, a sacred ritual led by a shaman, to the gravity of its effects in the following days, to the incredible connections I`ve made with some of the people here, it is just too much to take in. These two weeks have been the most powerful, overwhelming, influential, positive, emotional, intense, heartbreaking, and uplifting experiences of my trip and until I can sort my thoughts out at least in my personal journal, I will have to leave them blank on this public one.

Tomorrow or possibly the next day I pass through Loja and on to Cuenca. It`s so hard knowing I am going to leave this place, but I will take with me everything that I learned and felt and saw and hopefully leave a bit of myself behind as well. I will remember its energy forever.

Falcon

Posted by The Cat 3:58 PM Comments (1)

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