Getting Lost in South America "Life is like the surf, so give yourself away like the sea." tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-08-06:/blog/?domain=the-cat 2007-03-13T21:16:58Z The Cat img/travel-blog-feed.png Toronto, Canada, Final Entry tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-13:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=91&entryid=49881 2007-03-13T21:16:58Z 2007-03-13T21:16:58Z At last, after 6 months of being on the road, I am home. I caught the plane alright, changed over in Atlanta, Georgia, and arrived safely in Toronto last night at about 8pm. I cried at bit on the plane when it first took off and I watched the Caribbean coastline float away into the clouds. And waiting in the airport in Atlanta I had a bit of reverse culture shock, looking at everything around me. I had lunch at this ... At last, after 6 months of being on the road, I am home. I caught the plane alright, changed over in Atlanta, Georgia, and arrived safely in Toronto last night at about 8pm.

I cried at bit on the plane when it first took off and I watched the Caribbean coastline float away into the clouds. And waiting in the airport in Atlanta I had a bit of reverse culture shock, looking at everything around me. I had lunch at this restaurant and everyone there looked so tidy and good, they all spoke English, it was normal to pay $13 dollars for lunch, and I was sitting there with my Bolivian cowboy hat slung around my neck feeling slightly out of place.

But now that I'm here in Toronto I am so happy to be here. It's like Christmas time (which I missed) and every time I look around me I feel like I'm seeing it all for the first time. There is snow on the ground! And the air is so crisp and refreshing! And I can throw the toilet paper into the toilet instead of in the rubbish bin! And the water coming from the taps is warm! There are so many strange things here, things that everyone takes for granted.

Right now I'm just taking it easy in Toronto, but the plan is to head home home (Combermere) on the 17th for a visit, then find my way to Brighton after that. From there, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I have to sort myself out, find a place to live, to work, to have some long-term role in society again. Let a new adventure begin!

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]]> Caracas, International Airport tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-11:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=90&entryid=49556 2007-03-12T01:36:27Z 2007-03-12T01:33:01Z After the conversation with the hotel people this morning, I weighed my options and decided I didn`t want to venture out onto the streets of Caracas at 5 in the morning when it was still dark and dangerous. And so, instead, I went back to the hotel, rushed around packing my bags in time for check-out, then later took a taxi to the bus stop, then the bus to the airport, and arrived here at about 6pm. I had dinner ... After the conversation with the hotel people this morning, I weighed my options and decided I didn`t want to venture out onto the streets of Caracas at 5 in the morning when it was still dark and dangerous. And so, instead, I went back to the hotel, rushed around packing my bags in time for check-out, then later took a taxi to the bus stop, then the bus to the airport, and arrived here at about 6pm. I had dinner at Subway (being able to eat something familiar like that made me more comfortable in a less-than-ideal situation), wandered around the building to get my bearings, and am now wasting time in the internet cafe. When it gets a bit later and less busy, I`ll go back up to the food area, which seems safe and where there are always people, to find a bench to sleep on. I`ve got my cable lock so I can just lock my bags to a bench or something and not worry too much. I`m sure I`ll be sleeping light anyway.

But I have a story to tell. A strange thing happened to me when I was still at the hotel, let me tell you.

The one good thing about the place was that there were other travellers there with whom I could chat. So both evenings I`d go out to the open (concrete) terrace, the only common area, and socialize with whoever was out there.

Eric, a 28yearold Argentinian who travels around giving long tours to groups, is a loud, opinionated, really awesome guy. We got along well and had conversations about politics, technology and how it affects society, video games, everything. He was very intelligent and though he was acutely aware of the world he had a laughing, light manner that I liked.

Lucy is a 33yearold Brit, travelling around Central and South America for months, was very nice though she tended to ramble, and good company for those two evenings.

Joa (I think that was his name...), 24, is a really cool guy who looks Chinese, was born in Puerto Rico and grew up speaking Spanish, but went to a private American school so he also has a perfect American accent. We also had a lot to talk about as he was in the American army for 5 years and went to Iraq, has travelled a lot, does martial arts, draws, dances, breaks. A very cool guy.

I had a really good time hanging out with these three.

But the strange phenomenon came with my acquaintance with Rod Junior, a 24yearold black guy from the Congo. He is also very nice and I learned some things about him, too: he studied international commerce in Morocco for 5 years, he lived in Senagal for a while, he played basketball for some international team in Germany, and now lives in Venezuela working a shitty job at the hotel. His English isn`t that great so in the group he was pretty quiet, but when it was just the two of us talking (and we really only talked for maybe 20 minutes or 1/2hr) he suddenly decided that he was in love with me and told me so.

This didn`t come out the first evening, but the second evening before the others showed up, he suddenly was asking about whether I had someone at home, whether I was married, and when he learned I wasn`t married he said: ¨I will wait for you, 4 years, 5 years, it doesn`t matter,¨ like he was certain in 4 years I would want to marry him. At first I laughed it off, I said I`m sure he`d find some nice girl in Senegal or the Congo, or wherever he happened to live, that he didn`t understand I wasn`t interested, that I didn`t know him. The look on his face though - his whole manner changed from the first evening, and the sort of desperation and almost pathetic look when he found out I had to go sleep in the airport, the trouble he took trying to make sure I was ok... He said ¨Trust me, I love you, I will wait for you. I don`t know why, it`s like a sign from God,¨ I just said I was flattered and thank you. And maybe he isn´t in love with me, but he really thinks he is, and it`s such a strange thing to happen to me that I just had to write about it. Today was a bit tiring, actually, cuz he sort of followed me around, unthreatening, but again with that sort of annoying desperation, a painful eagerness to serve me or something - I don`t know to describe it. Anyway, the whole thing fascinates me but moves me not in the least so I`m happy to be on my way.

And now, here I am back to the reality of the airport. It is a nice airport. But I don`t have much to say about it. In the morning I`ll pay my departure tax, go through customs, the whole deal, and breathe a sigh of relief when I can get on that plane and have a proper rest.

See you in Canada!!!

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]]> Caracas, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-11:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=89&entryid=49506 2007-03-11T15:50:16Z 2007-03-11T15:50:16Z Well, I have a pretty good chance of getting robbed tomorrow morning. The staff at the hotel are so damn unfriendly and unhelpful! My plane leaves in the morning, so in order to get to the airport in good time I have to leave my hotel by 5am. The woman at reception told me flatly that I can`t call a taxi that early and that I`d have to walk up to the main street to try to hail one down, ... Well, I have a pretty good chance of getting robbed tomorrow morning. The staff at the hotel are so damn unfriendly and unhelpful! My plane leaves in the morning, so in order to get to the airport in good time I have to leave my hotel by 5am. The woman at reception told me flatly that I can`t call a taxi that early and that I`d have to walk up to the main street to try to hail one down, but that it wasn`t a good idea because it´s very dangerous. What choice do I have, huh!?! Another option is to go to the airport tonight and try to sleep in a waiting room or something... I guess the next time I write will be from either the airport (though probably not) or, more likely, Canada. Home sweet home!

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]]> Caracas, Day 2 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-10:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=88&entryid=49397 2007-03-10T23:04:02Z 2007-03-10T23:04:02Z Today has been better. I slept in and took my time getting ready to explore this morning - had a shower, played a couple games of cards, listened to the sound of my rackety fan and the moan of a woman in the next room... I left the building by noon and so didn`t get as much exploring done as I thought I might, but I did have a pretty good day. The commercial, cosmopolitcan face of the Sabana Grande area ... Today has been better. I slept in and took my time getting ready to explore this morning - had a shower, played a couple games of cards, listened to the sound of my rackety fan and the moan of a woman in the next room... I left the building by noon and so didn`t get as much exploring done as I thought I might, but I did have a pretty good day.

The commercial, cosmopolitcan face of the Sabana Grande area changed quickly as I walked toward the centre. I didn`t even make it that far - just as far as Central Park which is about half way - but instead of McDonalds ads everywhere there were signs in black and white and red supporting the revolution, images of Chavez, mini political rallies... In the Parque los Caohos there are billboards with old photos from 1989 of polics beating up civilians, clashes betwen rioters, looters, dead bodies, crying families... The whole park is under reconstruction, too, and big signs thanking Chavez for the money to do this are figure prominently among the beautiful sculptures that dot the area. This part of the city breathes socialism and revolution. Everything is political.

Here, like in Bogotá, there also seems to be a strong arts scene. Everything building I went into today had to do with either art, music, or theatre: I went into the Galeria de Arte National early this afternoon, connected to which is the Cinemateca Nacional and the Museo de Bellas Artes. From there I passed the Alteneo de Caracas, which houses a big theatre company, and had a look at the Teatro de Teresa Carreño, a huge performing arts centre. Later on I went into the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, which has an impressive collection of Picasso pieces and really neat modern stuff.

The internet place is closing so I gotta go! I`ll write another brief entry tomorrow.

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]]> Caracas, Venezuela, Day 1 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-09:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=87&entryid=49209 2007-03-09T20:42:32Z 2007-03-09T20:42:32Z Well I´ve had a hellish last 24 hours let me tell you! And I have a rotten first impression of Caracas. I got a bus yesterday at 12.30pm, it was late and I actually left at 1.30pm. I met a nice German couple while I was waiting, so it was good to chat with them. They warned me that the bus would be cold, so before I boarded I took out my pant legs (they zip onto my shorts) and ... Well I´ve had a hellish last 24 hours let me tell you! And I have a rotten first impression of Caracas. I got a bus yesterday at 12.30pm, it was late and I actually left at 1.30pm. I met a nice German couple while I was waiting, so it was good to chat with them. They warned me that the bus would be cold, so before I boarded I took out my pant legs (they zip onto my shorts) and a long-sleeved shirt. How little I was prepared!! While there was sun outside the air-con was nice, but during the night it was FRIGID, goddamn cold, and I didn´t sleep a wink cuz I was curled up into myself as tightly as I could be trying to keep warm, grumbling and nearly shivering the whole night. There was one 15-minute moment of blessed relief when the air conditioning didn´t seem to work quite as efficiently and I did sleep then, but alas, it did not last.

And so I arrived in Caracas, Venezuela, at 8am this morning (which felt like 7am still cuz of the hour time difference), sat down in the waiting room for a few minutes while I decided where I was going to go, and took a little bus and then the Metro, Venezuela´s subway system, to an area called Sabana Grande. Finding a hotel was nightmarish as well, despite the help of a couple very friendly English-speaking Venezuelans, because the prices are so exorbant. The central area is cheaper apparently, but the men who were helping me gave a strong recommendation against it as it is quite dangerous at night, and so I´m staying at the ´cheap´ Nuestro Hotel aka Backpackers Hotel for a whopping $22 a night (I´m used to paying no more than $5). Caracas is expensive.

Another kicker with the hotels here is that almost all of them have a double purpose and cater toward 2 separate crowds: they do take travellers, but during the day the open rooms are rented by the hour and they become sort of like brothels. This means that a traveller like myself can´t check in until after 7pm or so, when the seedy side of business is over with, which means that, after a sleepless night on a horribly cold bus, I still haven´t been able to lie down and have to just hang out until this evening. Argh! And I will get to sleep on a bed that x number of hookers, desperate men, or participants of mad affairs have been in. Joy!

Anyway, there have been some amusing and positive things in the last 24 hours as well. The film they showed on the bus was a bootlegged version of The Departed, which won Best Picture and Director I think at the Oscars recently, and which is not yet out on video. And it´s excellent and shocking and my kind of movie cuz I love gangster plots.

And, of course, even though I find the masses of Caracas to be entirely unwelcoming and unfriendly so far, I have met a few individuals who´ve been eager to help me out and who are very kind.

And while I was walking down the street today making observations, I saw:
- two hip parents with a toddler walking between them, hand-in-hand, and he was totally pimped out like them - I´m talking black wife beater and gold chain pimped out, and he wasn´t even 2 years old!
- a huge area in the middle of the street where all sorts of old men are playing chess (not a single woman was there...)
- a shopping mall outside every subway stop, a McDonald´s every 200 metres, Burger Kings, KFCs, and giant monuments atops skyscrapers for Pepsi and Nescafe - interesting for a country so adamantly left-wing and anti-American

Tomorrow I´m going to explore the old, historic part of the city, which should be more interesting. Really though, now that I´m away from the beautiful Caribbean Sea and the tranquil Taganga environment, I´m excited to be coming home. I´m not really in the mood for Caracas.

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]]> Taganga, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-07:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=86&entryid=48835 2007-03-07T20:38:27Z 2007-03-07T20:34:33Z Well, this is it. Almost it. Tomorrow I head back to Santa Marta to get a bus (or 3 buses, depending on how it works out) to Caracas, Venezuela. It will take me a long time to get there so who knows when I`ll be on the net again. Perhaps not for a couple days, perhaps tomorrow. I haven`t been doing much besides drinking fruit juice and reading on the beach for the last couple days so there`s not much to ... Well, this is it. Almost it. Tomorrow I head back to Santa Marta to get a bus (or 3 buses, depending on how it works out) to Caracas, Venezuela. It will take me a long time to get there so who knows when I`ll be on the net again. Perhaps not for a couple days, perhaps tomorrow.

I haven`t been doing much besides drinking fruit juice and reading on the beach for the last couple days so there`s not much to talk about. I might have been bored if it hadn`t been for Jill, a girl from Boston I`ve been hanging out with. But she`s great and awesome to talk to - she reminds me a lot of my cousin Amanda, both in looks and manners, and is fun to be around. Today we walked 20 minutes along the rocky coastal ridge to another little beach called Playa Grande and enjoyed a quiet morning. There was a little old Colombian couple waist-deep, with linked arms, helping each other walk along near the shore and they were so cute; the old lady had a ballcap on to protect her from the sun. Lots of people showed up toward noon though, and we both decided we actually liked the beach right in Taganga better, so we headed back about an hour ago. She`s still there enjoying the sun, while I, who can`t take too much sun, have gone off to run errands. I need a shower to rinse all the salt off me!

P.S. Yesterday I posted a couple more pictures. You can see them by clicking on the photos here:
http://the-cat.travellerspoint.com/author/68762/

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]]> Taganga, Day 1 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-05:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=85&entryid=48517 2007-03-05T22:32:56Z 2007-03-05T22:32:56Z Since Taganga is only a 15 minute drive from Santa Marta, I had a rather relaxed, chilled out morning, had a delicious fruit salad for breakfast, packed my bag, and took a colectivo (small van/bus) to this pretty little village. It`s a popular weekend retreat for Colombians coming from Santa Marta, but as I`ve arrived on a Monday it`s very nice and not too crowded. This place is very tranquil and laid back, there are fishing boats in the water, ... Since Taganga is only a 15 minute drive from Santa Marta, I had a rather relaxed, chilled out morning, had a delicious fruit salad for breakfast, packed my bag, and took a colectivo (small van/bus) to this pretty little village. It`s a popular weekend retreat for Colombians coming from Santa Marta, but as I`ve arrived on a Monday it`s very nice and not too crowded.

This place is very tranquil and laid back, there are fishing boats in the water, some tourists on the beach, snorkelling and scubadiving options, and a trail that leads to another little beach about an hour walk away. Being at the end of my trip, I don`t have the money for anything but food and a bed, really, so I will content myself with the beautiful scenery and tomorrow I may take that hike to the other little beach.

I`m actually a bit afraid of getting bored here with just a beach and a book to occupy me! I realized today I planned my Aracataca trip badly - it`s a few hours in the opposite direction to Caracas, so I`ve decided not to go, not to spend the extra time and money. Thus I will be here in Taganga for 3 nights, then head to Caracas, giving myself plenty of time (I hope) to catch my flight.

What a strange thing to think about leaving! I still feel that I am so lucky to be here, and for the next 3 days I will do nothing but appreciate the place I`m in, the sea breeze, the smell of salt, the green of the palm trees, the occasional whisper of a flute or shout of a drum... After that I`ll be spending hours in buses and then a plane, so I consider this my last real stop.

As much as I hate to think about finding a job and living `real´ life again (which is more real? to see different kinds of people, another culture, to make friendships and connections and learn to accept all the goodbyes, to grow as a person, to learn and learn and learn and become stronger for dealing with the hardships that come with travelling? or to fall into a city routine, to spend money on little things you don`t need, to wear a different outfit everyday and work at a job you don`t like and eat food that is refined and processed so that you don`t know what you are eating?...), I am SO so excited to see everyone I miss so much. And I will see you soon!!!!!!!!!!!

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]]> Parque Nacional Tayrona tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-04:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=84&entryid=48286 2007-03-04T22:20:15Z 2007-03-04T22:20:15Z Wow what an amazing spot Tayrona National Park is. After arriving at the gate it`s a 45min walk to the first beach, Arrecifes, through tall canopied green rainforest. The beach is brilliant, the water bright blue, with strong, constant waves crashing onto shore. I paused here only to take some photos, and walked the other 45min, past some beautiful little beaches on the way, to El Cabo, a stunning beach in two horseshoe shapes lined with giagantic boulders and filled ... Wow what an amazing spot Tayrona National Park is. After arriving at the gate it`s a 45min walk to the first beach, Arrecifes, through tall canopied green rainforest. The beach is brilliant, the water bright blue, with strong, constant waves crashing onto shore. I paused here only to take some photos, and walked the other 45min, past some beautiful little beaches on the way, to El Cabo, a stunning beach in two horseshoe shapes lined with giagantic boulders and filled with the same glorious blue colour. Here, too, I passed by to climb the steep and rocky 1.25hrs to El Pueblito, a small but impressive archaeological site left over from the Tayrona Indians. When I came back down I paid for a hammock on the beach for a night, threw my stuff into a locker, and hit the beach to cool down after a hot and muggy hike.

Oh this place is so gorgeous. On the path I passed army ant highways, countless little lizards that scurry off when they sense your footsteps, colourful butterflies, massive king vultures up in the treetops with wingspans wider than I am tall... I met some good people, though mostly stuck to myself, reading and relaxing by the water. And the lunar eclipse last night was spectacular!

I didn`t sleep well cuz I wasn`t prepared for the chill that came at night, but was happy in the morning nevertheless. I went to look at a couple smaller beaches mostly for the walk, had a nice breakfast, and trekked back to get a ride to Santa Marta.

This is rushed cuz I`m almost out of internet time by the way. Tomorrow I head to Taganga for a night or two, a little fishing village I hear is nice.

8 days left!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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]]> Santa Marta, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-03:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=83&entryid=48026 2007-03-03T14:16:46Z 2007-03-03T14:16:46Z Yesterday I had a wonderful day just wandering around town and chatting to people in the hostel. Santa Marta is a very small city with good, friendly people, a boardwalk and beaches along the sea, and killer Caribbean drum beats. There was a group of young guys near the beach yesterday playing the hottest fastest tightest beats, and the best drum player couldn`t have been more than 15 years old. I love the Caribbean-flavoured music here. The only toury thing ... Yesterday I had a wonderful day just wandering around town and chatting to people in the hostel. Santa Marta is a very small city with good, friendly people, a boardwalk and beaches along the sea, and killer Caribbean drum beats. There was a group of young guys near the beach yesterday playing the hottest fastest tightest beats, and the best drum player couldn`t have been more than 15 years old. I love the Caribbean-flavoured music here.

The only toury thing I did (and the only toury thing to do at all, really) was visit the free Museo de Tayrona, which houses artefacts from the Tayrona and K____ tribes (I forget the name of that second one) as well as some gold pieces, and modern art on the second floor.

The buildings in Santa Marta aren`t as spectacular as Cartagena, but I prefer this city much more, it has a better vibe, and I´m glad to be spending my last days in this area.

In an hour I`m taking a shared taxi to Parque National Tayrona, a unique spot where beaches meet the highest coastal mountain range in the world, full of diverse plant and animal life, and with gorgeous beaches and little archaeological sites. I`m gonna stay the night, so I`ll talk more about it tomorrow night or so.

9 days left!!!!!

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]]> Santa Marta, Day 2 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-02:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=82&entryid=47842 2007-03-02T15:28:35Z 2007-03-02T15:28:35Z I decided once again to skip a town on my travels: yesterday I sailed right past Barranquilla and on to Santa Marta instead. With only 10 days left (!!!) I figured it was a better place to stop, with more beautiful places to see in the area. For my last full day in Cartagena, the day after the boat trip, I went to visit the Castillo de San Felipe, one of the few forts outside the walled part of the city ... I decided once again to skip a town on my travels: yesterday I sailed right past Barranquilla and on to Santa Marta instead. With only 10 days left (!!!) I figured it was a better place to stop, with more beautiful places to see in the area.

For my last full day in Cartagena, the day after the boat trip, I went to visit the Castillo de San Felipe, one of the few forts outside the walled part of the city that were used to defend key points of the important port town. It`s a massive structure with barracks, a hospital for the wounded soldiers, rest areas, a little house where decisions were made, and an impressive and complex system of underground tunnels to facilitate evacuation and ventillation.

In the afternoon I just relaxed in the hammock in the hostel and packed up my bags, ready to leave the next day.

Yesterday I travelled, and reached Santa Marta in the evening. The first hostel I checked out, Hostal Miramar, turned out to have internet, a restaurant, more people who speak English than I can shake a tail at, and the cheapest price. So despite the crumbling walls it seems to be the best place, and is very social. Last night I went for dinner with 2 Germans, 1 American, 1 fellow Canadian, and 1 Swede, and had a lovely time chatting about the cool things you can do here.

Today I plan to wander around the city itself, but in the next couple days I`m gonna head to the Parque National Tayrona, a huge jungle park on the coast which is supposed to be stunning.

I can`t believe I only have 10 days left!

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]]> Cartagena, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-27:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=81&entryid=47305 2007-02-28T00:36:02Z 2007-02-28T00:36:02Z Today I took a boat with a bunch of other tourists (most of whom were from different parts of Colombia, though a few were from other countries and spoke Enlgish) to the Islas del Rosario and the Playa Blanca. The islands are beautiful, and while half the group paid $7 to go see an aquarium, the other half (I among them) paid $7 to go snorkelling and see all the wonderful fish and coral in their natural environment. I`ve seen ... Today I took a boat with a bunch of other tourists (most of whom were from different parts of Colombia, though a few were from other countries and spoke Enlgish) to the Islas del Rosario and the Playa Blanca. The islands are beautiful, and while half the group paid $7 to go see an aquarium, the other half (I among them) paid $7 to go snorkelling and see all the wonderful fish and coral in their natural environment. I`ve seen a coral reef and all its rich and diverse wildlife before they go extinct! Yay! It was such a great thing to do. Later on in the day we went to the Playa Blanca where we were hoarded with vendors selling drinks and massages and jewellery. To get away from the pushy tourist area I walked further down the beach and had a nice bowl of fruit at a quiet spot. When we returned I had a couple beers with two brothers I`d been chatting to during the day. One of them, Chris, works for the UN and though he is from the Boston area, currently lives in Cali, Colombia, for work. He was very interesting. His brother Bern was just down for a two week visit/vacation. I didn`t ask what he did, but he seemed to know a lot about books. What a good day!

I haven`t decided at this point whether or not I will move on Barranquilla tomorrow or the next day. I have one or two things I`d like to check out here first, but the road to Barranquilla is only 2 hours so I could leave any time. I`ll see how I feel in the morning!

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]]> Cartegena, Day 1 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-25:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=80&entryid=46869 2007-02-25T18:26:36Z 2007-02-25T18:26:36Z I have arrived in Cartagena safely and soundly, albeit with no sleep in me. I travelled all day yesterday and all last night and arrived at 8.30 this morning. Yes, I have been travelling at night as I said I wouldn`t, but only because it is safe to do so. Colombia is really not as bad as people still think it is: it is under much more control than it was 4 years ago, the guerrillas have been forced into ... I have arrived in Cartagena safely and soundly, albeit with no sleep in me. I travelled all day yesterday and all last night and arrived at 8.30 this morning. Yes, I have been travelling at night as I said I wouldn`t, but only because it is safe to do so. Colombia is really not as bad as people still think it is: it is under much more control than it was 4 years ago, the guerrillas have been forced into the rural areas and out of cities and towns, and I haven`t heard of any problems with overland travellers.

It`s HOT here, man. As I was watching the landscape roll by in the morning light, I thought to myself: It`s a bit like the African savannah here on the Caribbean coast, with flat grasslands and strange sprawling trees scattered about. I feel like I`m in a different country the scenery has changed so much. It reminds me of the change in landscape travelling from La Paz to Santa Cruz in Bolivia, entering the tropics.

I haven`t explored the city yet and I was tired from the sleepless bus ride. I napped in my wonderful little cheap Hotel Doral - though my room is dark, the rest of the building is bright and has a courtyard full of plants and hammocks, read in a hammock for a while, and only now after 1pm am I wandering out.

And so, this was just to let you know all is well.

Happy birthday Mum and Patricia!!!!!!!!!!

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]]> Villa de Leyva, Day 1 and only tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-23:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=79&entryid=46422 2007-02-23T19:17:21Z 2007-02-23T19:17:21Z What a wonderfully delightful little village! This is another place at which I regret to say I can`t stay long. This morning I got up to a hustle and bustle in the main plaza - everyone was dresed up in old fashion costume: dazzling ladies in their gowns and hats, men in top hats and smart suits, ragged peasants and children, a full mix! and a wedding going on in the church. Zorro was, however, no where to be seen; ... What a wonderfully delightful little village! This is another place at which I regret to say I can`t stay long. This morning I got up to a hustle and bustle in the main plaza - everyone was dresed up in old fashion costume: dazzling ladies in their gowns and hats, men in top hats and smart suits, ragged peasants and children, a full mix! and a wedding going on in the church. Zorro was, however, no where to be seen; he must have been in his civilian clothes. I should also mention the camera crew I guess, though it`s not nearly so exciting to know that it`s all pretend. They were filming the New Zorro series, and apparently do this every month. I made friend with the whole damn town taking pictures and chatting with the various town members/movie extras with the promise that I`d send the photos via email when I got home. I also chatted to one of the film crews photographers a bit. This Zorro series airs on a channel called Telemundo here, and is shown all over the world, including Canada, so check it out! Maybe you`lll see some of my new friends - they´ll be all the extra people in the church in the wedding scene, whenever that is...

Anyway, this is such a pretty little town, with an impressive plaza, all sorts of cute shops and restaurants, and beautiful white-washed colonial buildings lining streets made of massive cobblestones. I climbed the hardest 1/2hr hike up a hill to the Jesus statue/lookout and took in a spectacular view of the place, went into the Casa Museo de Luis Alberto Acuña, a local artist, and now I gotta figure out what I`m to do for the rest of the day.

Tomorrow I´ll leave in the morning for Tunja, catch a bus to Bucaramanga, then from there to Cartagena. I have a lot of travelling ahead of me so I don`t forsee any internet time tomorrow. Caribbean coast here I come!

Villa de Leyva, Day 1 and only remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Bogotá, Day 4 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-22:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=78&entryid=46244 2007-02-22T16:48:27Z 2007-02-22T16:48:27Z Ahoy there maties! I don`t know if I`ll get on the internet later today so I thought it best to update while I can. I`m waiting in the bus terminal in Bogotá for the 2.40pm bus to Villa de Leyva. I wasn`t sure if there`d be other buses so I came a few hours early and alas, have to wait it out. I have my diary to catch up on and a good book to read though, so I can ... Ahoy there maties! I don`t know if I`ll get on the internet later today so I thought it best to update while I can. I`m waiting in the bus terminal in Bogotá for the 2.40pm bus to Villa de Leyva. I wasn`t sure if there`d be other buses so I came a few hours early and alas, have to wait it out. I have my diary to catch up on and a good book to read though, so I can keep myself occupied.

I finished reading Nathaniel Hawthorne´s The Scarlet Letter a couple weeks ago, by the way, and loved it! The plot is relatively simple and there is not a lot of action in the story, but it is so well told, so exceptionally well written, that I was turning the pages like I was reading a thriller, not an old romance story.

Now I`m reading a collection of stories and plays by Chekhov and am thoroughly enjoying them as well. 640 pages of genius! His short stories aren`t so much stories as brief moments in people´s lives and they´re rather charming because of it.

I should get into Villa de Leyva by 7pm, and plan to stay only a day or two before heading onward to the Caribbean coast. How exotic does that sound!

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]]> Bogotá, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-21:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=77&entryid=46041 2007-02-21T15:21:44Z 2007-02-21T15:16:11Z Sorry I haven`t written about Bogotá sooner - everything is fine here and I´ve no problems in this supposedly very dangerous capital of Colombia. To calm the fears of mi familia, I should say that this city feels on par with Toronto in many ways (the most obvious difference being the ubiquitous presence of military personel with automatic weapons here): I´ve quickly re-adopted my Toronto attitude when walking down the street as a precaution, but I think as long as ... Sorry I haven`t written about Bogotá sooner - everything is fine here and I´ve no problems in this supposedly very dangerous capital of Colombia. To calm the fears of mi familia, I should say that this city feels on par with Toronto in many ways (the most obvious difference being the ubiquitous presence of military personel with automatic weapons here): I´ve quickly re-adopted my Toronto attitude when walking down the street as a precaution, but I think as long as I keep my eyes open and stick to populated streets I will continue to be ok. My hostel is actually in quite a good location for walking home at night - the road takes me through all the important government buildings, so it´s well lit and there are always police and military guarding the way. I haven`t felt unsafe here like I did sometimes in Quito.

That said, I gotta say: man, I love this city. Bogotá is so full of character. I´ve only explored a few of its districts so far (even just the downtown section is huge), but from what I`ve seen it´s a city full of passion, rich with culture, diverse, and inspiring. The Candelaria area, the old historic centre where most tourists head for budget hostels, is colourful and quircky and full of beautiful old buildings just waiting to be explored. The central plaza, around which are all the important government buildings and the cathedral, is beautiful in a grander, fine way. The plaza itself is open with nothing in it but the monument of Simón Bolívar in the centre, but surrounding it is a wealth of architectural styles: at the south end is the Greek-style government palace; opposite is the more modern Palacio de Justicia; on the west side is the French-style governor´s office; and on the east is the Neoclassical cathedral and the smaller Colonial capilla. Walking north up Carrera 7 from the plaza, you walk through the commercial area with its fancy shops and cafes and a Dunkin´ Donuts every few blocks. This area, too, is wonderful to explore cuz there are so many people and things going on. Today I`m heading even further north to see another part of town.

In the past couple days I´ve stepped into a lot of churches to admire the decor and marvel at how deeply religous people are here. I forgot about Ash Wednesday until this morning: every second person I pass has an ash cross on their forehead. I´ve also been to a couple museums, the most impressive of which is the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), apparently the most important gold museum in South America. Some of the pieces in there are absolutely stunning, priceless for their brilliant handiwork. The arts, particularly theatre, seem to be thriving here as well - there are so many little theatre companies and posters for shows all over the place.

Yesterday evening I went to see a film, Blood Diamond, spur of the moment. It was in English with Spanish subtitles and takes place in Africa, dealing with the illegal diamond trade and the bloodshed it has caused over the years. As far as I remember, Leonardo DiCaprio is nominated for Best Actor at the Academy Awards this year so I wanted to check it out. It`s an excellent film and I can see why DiCaprio´s name is in the box; he has matured a lot as an actor.

Time a-ticking as it is, I think tomorrow I will move on to Villa de Leyva, a little town further north. I wish I could stay in Bogotá longer.

Bogotá, Day 3 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Salento, Day 5 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-18:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=76&entryid=45464 2007-02-18T17:39:52Z 2007-02-18T17:37:35Z Yesterday I went on a big 5 1/2 hike up a mountain in the Colombian cloud forest. Except for the little tumble that gave me a scraped elbow on a slippery steep bit, it couldn`t get any better - 5 hours in the rainforest!! It`s so gorgeous. I stopped at a little farm called Acaime, had some hot chocolate with cheese and took some pictures of the hummingbirds, then climbed up further to the mirador for a spectacular view of ... Yesterday I went on a big 5 1/2 hike up a mountain in the Colombian cloud forest. Except for the little tumble that gave me a scraped elbow on a slippery steep bit, it couldn`t get any better - 5 hours in the rainforest!! It`s so gorgeous. I stopped at a little farm called Acaime, had some hot chocolate with cheese and took some pictures of the hummingbirds, then climbed up further to the mirador for a spectacular view of Cocora Valley, then headed back to town. What a good day. And I felt so energized afterward: it had been a while since I`d gone on a big hike.

Today I was gonna get up early to go to Bogotá, but I`ll get a later bus. When you`re travelling you don`t really distinguish one day of the week from another, but today definitely feels like a Sunday: lazy and relaxed, no rush for anything.

Salento, Day 5 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Salento, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-16:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=75&entryid=45062 2007-02-16T19:28:16Z 2007-02-16T19:25:13Z Salento is as nice as my first impression let on. I´m staying in a hostel called The Plantation House, the only gringo hostel in the area. It´s rather pricey, but I managed to score a half-room-upstairs-attic bed for a good price on the suggestion of one of the travellers who works there. It´s such a cool room! It´s like sleeping in a tree house or in one of those old rooms in my dad´s lodge, so I´m perfectly at home ... Salento is as nice as my first impression let on. I´m staying in a hostel called The Plantation House, the only gringo hostel in the area. It´s rather pricey, but I managed to score a half-room-upstairs-attic bed for a good price on the suggestion of one of the travellers who works there. It´s such a cool room! It´s like sleeping in a tree house or in one of those old rooms in my dad´s lodge, so I´m perfectly at home there. The people coming and going are all cool, too: there are some Americans, Canadians, and a few people from France, and Tim, the guy who runs the place with his Colombian wife, is English.

Apparently Salento has been a popular weekend vacation spot for Colombians for years, and only in the last 2 years since Tim opened the hostel have there been many foreign travellers, so it´s not too touristy yet and still has the authentic South American vibe.

Yesterday some friends from the hostel and I walked an hour down a gorgeous country road, past fields of cows, tall eucalyptus trees, bunches of big bamboo trees hanging over the road, and grand views of the lush green valley below, to a couple of organic coffee farms that give little tours of their property. The first one was bigger and most of the product from their 41000 coffee plants was for export; the second was a smaller farm run by a family who only sells their coffee in the local markets. Both were really interesting, and it was neat to walk around and see all the different coffee plants and learn how they harvest the beans, clean then dry them out, roast them, sometimes grind them, and sell them. At the end of each tour we drank some of their top quality coffee and I must say that, even though I´m not a coffee drinker, that cup was mighty good. At the smaller farm we actually roasted our own beans for 20 minutes over a fire, ground them in a little grinder, and made the coffee we drank.

Today it´s been raining again so I haven´t done anything. I´m actually in Armenia to get money use the internet (much faster here), and will head back to Salento in a couple hours with Brandon, the American guy whose been working at the hostel. Tomorrow I plan to do a bit more exploring in the valley nearby, but Sunday I´ll head further north. Gotta make it to the coast soon!

Salento, Day 3 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Salento, Day 1 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-14:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=74&entryid=44746 2007-02-14T22:34:57Z 2007-02-14T22:34:57Z Yesterday I travelled allllllll freakin day to Popayán, Cali, and finally Armenia, at which I bunked up in a hotel across the street from the bus station in a dodgy part of town. The idea was to get to Salento, but I didn`t quite make it and wanted to sleep. This morning I travelled the last 40 minutes to Salento, another gorgeous little cowboy town about 6 hours southwest of Bogotá. It´s been raining hard all day so I haven´t ... Yesterday I travelled allllllll freakin day to Popayán, Cali, and finally Armenia, at which I bunked up in a hotel across the street from the bus station in a dodgy part of town. The idea was to get to Salento, but I didn`t quite make it and wanted to sleep. This morning I travelled the last 40 minutes to Salento, another gorgeous little cowboy town about 6 hours southwest of Bogotá. It´s been raining hard all day so I haven´t been able to explore much, but I can tell it´s one of those towns that I´ll want to stay for longer than intended. It´s so beautiful and lush and full of horses and cowboys and pretty buildings, and the area is great for hikes and coffee farms tours and that kind of thing. The internet, however, is slow and expensive, so I won´t be on it too much while I´m here. I´m feeling better, by the way; not completely recovered, but definitely improving. Thanks to everyone who wrote their concerns. Until next time!

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]]> San Agustín, Day 2 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-11:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=73&entryid=44018 2007-02-11T20:50:07Z 2007-02-11T20:50:07Z hey everyone, just writing to say all is well. i bought and took some rather harsh medicine yesterday but i still feel sick (i think it takes about 2 days to work), so i haven`t felt like writing much. san agustín is very nice. there are horses every two feet, in the roads, in the fields, with their owners, all alone... horses horses everywhere! i`m staying in a casa familiar, which is basically somebody`s house with extra rooms for guests, ... hey everyone, just writing to say all is well. i bought and took some rather harsh medicine yesterday but i still feel sick (i think it takes about 2 days to work), so i haven`t felt like writing much. san agustín is very nice. there are horses every two feet, in the roads, in the fields, with their owners, all alone... horses horses everywhere! i`m staying in a casa familiar, which is basically somebody`s house with extra rooms for guests, so it`s nice and tranquile. today i went to el parque archeologico, one of colombia`s most famous archaeological sites. it was very impressive and so so beautiful. i just wish i felt better so i could enjoy it more. what struck me more than the old sites, actually, was the weather - i DID get to experience the autumn season! the leaves were falling bright red and yellow there, the air and the wind smelled like fall, it`s gorgeous and though this place is another country and different and strange, it`s the closest to home i`ve seen so far. anyway i need to go back to my bed and rest. still waitin for the meds to kick in...

San Agustín, Day 2 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Popayán, Colombia, Day 1 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-08:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=72&entryid=43514 2007-02-08T23:21:45Z 2007-02-08T23:21:45Z Travelling to Colombia was a bit of a nightmare only because I am sick. I picked up some bug or parasite in Otavalo, have the worst digestive problems, and even though I´m hungry I can´t eat anything. That aside though, I am so so excited to be here in a new country! A Colombian guy named Robinson who lives in Argentina was actually travelling across the border from Otavalo as well, so we shared taxis, waited in lines, and crossed together, ... Travelling to Colombia was a bit of a nightmare only because I am sick. I picked up some bug or parasite in Otavalo, have the worst digestive problems, and even though I´m hungry I can´t eat anything.

That aside though, I am so so excited to be here in a new country! A Colombian guy named Robinson who lives in Argentina was actually travelling across the border from Otavalo as well, so we shared taxis, waited in lines, and crossed together, saving us both some money. I was glad to have him there cuz Colombian money is waay different from any other country I´ve been to so far. The denominations are massive - ex. 1000 pesos = $0.50, 10 000 pesos = just over $5. It´ll take me a few days to get used to it and know how much I´m spending.

Getting to the border was no problem, but the line up was very long so we were there for about 2.5hours in the blistering sunlight. I had to sit down after a while cuz I felt like I was gonna pass out. The actual process was straightforward though and I had no problems leaving Ecuador and entering Colombia. Because we didn´t get there till the evening, however, and I didn´t want to waste time sleeping in the border town, I decided just to travel to Popayán on the next bus. Everyone I asked said there haven´t been any problems in the area recently, and I got to Popayán safely around 4.30am.

I waited around at the bus station for a while until it was light outside then took a taxi to a hotel, at which I slept for hours cuz I was so tired. Once I was up and moving, I explored the city, went to the Museum of Natural History, climbed a big hill for a fabulous lookout point, and had a delicious vegetarian meal for the equivalent of $1.50 that stayed in me for about an hour.

Now let me tell you just how much, in just a day, I love Colombia. The first three people I met in the country - a young guy at the cafe in the bus terminal, my taxi driver to the hotel, and a hotel clerk who directed me to a cheaper place - are the most friendly people I´ve met on the entire trip. The cafe server was this friendly, energetic, help-you-in-any-way type of guy. My taxi driver especially had the most unthreatening, kind manner: he waited with me at the hostel early in the morning until he knew I could get in ok, and when there were no rooms actually carried my backpack to the next hostel and waited with me there. I am immediately struck by how amazing the people are here.

The city itself, too, is absolutely stunning! The steets are lined with these massive white-washed colonial mansions that have been converted into storefronts or hotels or other businesses. And the vegetation! The trees in the plaza and in the parks are beautiful. I haven´t travelled very very far from Ecuador at this point, but it´s obvious I´m in a different country.

One thing I noticed today as I was walking the streets is that this is the first place I´ve been where everyone riding motorcycles actually wear helmets and reflective vests. Everywhere else I´ve been the bike laws have been very lax.

Anyway, as I don´t have much time left (I´m almost at the 5 month mark!!) I´ll be travelling to San Agustín tomorrow. I would love to explore Popayán some more, but I gotta move on.

Popayán, Colombia, Day 1 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Otavalo, Day 2 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-06:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=71&entryid=43134 2007-02-06T21:21:38Z 2007-02-06T21:21:38Z So so so On my last full day in Quito I went to visit the Mitad del Mundo, 45kms or something north or Quito where lies the equator. It`s set up like a theme park (well, I guess it is a theme park) for families and tourists. I got into the museum for free cuz when I asked a guide if it was worth the $3 after paying $2 to get in, he said he didn`t agree with the price ... So so so

On my last full day in Quito I went to visit the Mitad del Mundo, 45kms or something north or Quito where lies the equator. It`s set up like a theme park (well, I guess it is a theme park) for families and tourists. I got into the museum for free cuz when I asked a guide if it was worth the $3 after paying $2 to get in, he said he didn`t agree with the price and walked in with me, ticketless, saying ¨she`s with me¨. Woo! I did pay for the planetarium show, though, which was awesome - I don`t remember being in planetarium since I was a kid. And lemme tell you, you may not think stepping across a line on the ground over and over again is cool, but it was pretty neat jumping from the Northern to the Southern Hemisphere with each step.

The day after, yesterday, I took a bus to Otavalo, this pretty little town north of Quito. Today I went to visit the Parque de Cóndor, an exhibition of various predatory birds of the area including condors, falcons, hawks, eagles, and different types of owls. I spent a long time sitting in front of the falcon cage - I have a particular affinity for them since the San Pedro ceremony in Vilcabamba. Then at the end the falconer gave the few tourists who were there a bit of a show, bringing out a few of the birds in turn and flying them, much to our delight.

I finally got my package sent - it`ll arrive at Sarah`s once again, hopefully before I get back to Canada.

Tomorrow I travel to Colombia!!

Otavalo, Day 2 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Quito, Day 3 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-03:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=70&entryid=42597 2007-02-04T01:58:20Z 2007-02-04T01:58:20Z Hola amigos, today I walked around Quito`s Old Town for hours and hours, trying to see as much as I could in as little time as possible. I checked out the art in Parque El Ejido, walked past the legislative palace, into Parque La Alameda, afterwhich I caught a glimpse of the incredible basilica up on the hill. Oooh I gotta post pictures of that baby. I beelined it there and spent a couple hours gawking at the impressive stone ... Hola amigos, today I walked around Quito`s Old Town for hours and hours, trying to see as much as I could in as little time as possible. I checked out the art in Parque El Ejido, walked past the legislative palace, into Parque La Alameda, afterwhich I caught a glimpse of the incredible basilica up on the hill. Oooh I gotta post pictures of that baby. I beelined it there and spent a couple hours gawking at the impressive stone structure and its elaborate gothic-like stone gargoyles and buttresses. And the view from the tower? Woowee! I walked around to the various plazas, saw a few more less impressive churches, turned down a 40-something year old guy who wanted me to come live with him, and headed back up the the New Town.

I`ll stay one more full day to take a bus to the equator tomorrow, then head to Otavalo on Monday. I really like Quito, but knowing I don`t have a whole lot of time I`m itching to get to Colombia! My first stop there will be San Augustin.

Quito, Day 3 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Quito, Day 2 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-02:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=69&entryid=42376 2007-02-02T22:58:10Z 2007-02-02T22:58:10Z From what I`ve seen of Quito so far, it`s bustling, vibrant, full of tourists and travel agencies, but with an old South American feel retained within its walls that make it a city worth visiting. I`m staying in a place called Hostel Vamosa in the middle of a rather touristy, but safer, area in Quito´s ´new town` called Mariscal Sucre. The ´new town` is the more business-oriented part of Quito, has lots of trendy shops and cafes, and is a ... From what I`ve seen of Quito so far, it`s bustling, vibrant, full of tourists and travel agencies, but with an old South American feel retained within its walls that make it a city worth visiting. I`m staying in a place called Hostel Vamosa in the middle of a rather touristy, but safer, area in Quito´s ´new town` called Mariscal Sucre. The ´new town` is the more business-oriented part of Quito, has lots of trendy shops and cafes, and is a bit more expensive to stay, but it seemed to be the better choice.

I actually haven`t ventured down to the ´old town` yet, but it`s supposed to be a better slice of true South American culture with its old colonial buildings and museums. Today I only walked down as far as the massive Parque El Ejido in between the two sections and plan to wander further tomorrow. If need be, there is a convenient (and cheap - $0.25) trolley service that connects the north and south of the city, a much better option than the $5-7 taxi you`d be taking if you had to get back to your hostel at night.

My hostel is friendly and clean, always good things. There are paintings all over the walls, and the walls are all bright reds and oranges, so it`s nice and cheery. I`m in a dorm of 4 beds except no one else is there, so I get a huge second room with a fireplace and a balcony overlooking the street all to myself. The beds are less than great, but I`m not complaining: I shuffled the boards holding the mattress up a bit and it`s a bit better, a bit more even.

Today I went into the Museo del Banco Central, a massive building with archeological artifacts from the different ancient cultures that sprung up in Ecuador, Colonial art, Republican art, and Modern art. Next door was the Casa de la Cultura which has an awesome exhibit of the artwork of Washington Masquera that I really enjoyed. His art is mostly ink and watercolours, very simple but expressive. After that I had a wander in the park, swang a bit on a swing, received a red flower from a messenger boy (he said it was from one of the guys playing futbol), and made my way up Av. Amazonas back to my hostel.

And now I`m famished! Gotta go get dinner.

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]]> Santo Domingo de los Colorados, Day 1 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-01-31:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=68&entryid=41942 2007-01-31T22:13:56Z 2007-01-31T22:13:56Z My informant was wrong: Santo Domingo isn`t very nice. Actually yesterday before I left Montañita, I bought some banners on chains (for street performance... I`m not sure of their actual name) from an artesan shop and the girl there said it wasn`t worth seeing. Ah well. I arrived at 1am this morning and didn`t want to sit on another bus, so here I am for today. At the moment I`m putting more photos onto CDs to clear up space on my ... My informant was wrong: Santo Domingo isn`t very nice. Actually yesterday before I left Montañita, I bought some banners on chains (for street performance... I`m not sure of their actual name) from an artesan shop and the girl there said it wasn`t worth seeing. Ah well. I arrived at 1am this morning and didn`t want to sit on another bus, so here I am for today.

At the moment I`m putting more photos onto CDs to clear up space on my camera, but also in preparation to send one more package home. I`m carrying things I don`t need!

All is well otherwise. It`s raining here, the city is dirty and busy and there`s not much to see: a few pricey shops, a forgettable market, dingy hostels, and it smells bad. Thumbs down to this place. Quito here I come! I`ll travel again tomorrow morning.

Santo Domingo de los Colorados, Day 1 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Montañita, Day 7 tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-01-30:/blog/?domain=the-cat&thisblog_entryid=67&entryid=41637 2007-01-30T17:14:13Z 2007-01-30T17:14:13Z Well I`ve finally packed my bags and will be taking a bus up the coast to Manta and then catching another bus to Santo Domingo de los Colorados en la sierra (mountains). I`ve had a wild time in Montañita and just couldn`t leave earlier. After my first couple days here I`d been spending so much time at the house that my artesania friends rent that I actually moved my stuff there, seeing that it was pointless to pay for a hostel ... Well I`ve finally packed my bags and will be taking a bus up the coast to Manta and then catching another bus to Santo Domingo de los Colorados en la sierra (mountains). I`ve had a wild time in Montañita and just couldn`t leave earlier.

After my first couple days here I`d been spending so much time at the house that my artesania friends rent that I actually moved my stuff there, seeing that it was pointless to pay for a hostel I was never at.

What a life these people lead! It`s free, full of people coming and going, but always with a sense of community and brotherhood. When one person in the family has money, everyone has money; when one person has food, everyone eats. I became part of the ¨family¨ one of my first nights partying there and have a whole collection of crazy photos to commemorate the initiation. I`ve learned a few things about the different kinds of art they sell, how to make devil sticks, I learned some tricks with batons that you light on fire, and, of course, I have partied hard and slept little. I like that even without knowing Spanish well I can hang out and make good friends with people who don`t know a word of English.

Anyway, I`ll take it easy and catch up on sleep after today. I hear Santo Domingo is beautiful and I look forward to moving on now that I`ve made that decision to leave the crazy Argentinians.

Montañita, Day 7 remains copyright of the author The Cat, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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